Gocta, Chachapoyas
Mario is a passionate photographer and entrepreneur who spent 30 years working in advertising and commercial photography before finding a new direction in the Amazonas region of Peru. Drawn by a desire for a simpler and more grounded way of life, he settled in Cocachimba, near the breathtaking Gocta waterfall. There, he started "La Casa de Mario," an ecolodge that blends his appreciation for nature with his commitment to the local community. Through his work, Mario has embraced sustainable tourism, collaborating with locals to preserve the natural beauty and unique character of the area.
What did you do before opening La Casa de Mario?
Well, before opening La Casa de Mario, I worked in photography for 30 years. I focused on advertising, social issues, and nature photography. When I first came across this place in 2010, I bought a small piece of land because I simply fell in love with it. I thought to myself, “This is where I want to retire. I may be young, but this is where I need to be.” During the pandemic, when photography work slowed down significantly, I made the decision to move here and start developing this project.
Of everything I saw and everything that was already here, I decided to create something deeply personal, which is where the name “La Casa de Mario” came from. I wanted it to be an expression of my own vision, and here we are. It’s been three years since the project began, and now we’re finally sharing the house with anyone who wants to visit. Guests are always welcome, and the experience is 100% personal. The idea was that, aside from the waterfall, the main attraction would be the feeling of being at home, a sense of trust and comfort. There are hardly any formalities here; we work in a simple, friendly, and personalized way. We aim for people not just to enjoy the view but also to feel like they’re part of the house for a few days.
When was the first time you came to Gocta, and what were your first impressions?
In 2010, I had just returned to Peru after spending more than 10 years abroad. I lived in Europe and almost eight years in the United States, but at some point, I felt a pull to come back to my homeland. My mother is from Amazonas, so I don’t see myself as an outsider; I’m part of this region. I came here for a patron saint festival celebrating the Señor de Hualamita, the patron of Elamut, a town about 40 minutes from here.
A cousin of mine, knowing I was a photographer, asked if I’d heard of Gocta. He said, “Mario, have you been to Gocta?” I had just returned from overseas and didn’t know about it. He told me, “It’s a waterfall, the third-highest in the world, and it’s right nearby.” The next morning, I was already here taking photos of the waterfall. I spent three days exploring and decided to buy a small piece of land. From that point on, I envisioned myself living here, retiring here, and helping the town.
Tourism is the main activity in this village, but there are other things that can be developed, like agroindustry. For example, I’m now working on an Amazonian condiment that’s very representative of the region, and I’ve already introduced it to the market. I enjoy doing things that break the monotony, diversifying activities that can help make the local economy run more effectively. That’s basically how I decided to stay here and start an interesting, attractive, and personal project that I could also share with others.
What made you decide to leave Lima and move to Gocta?
Well, I had always thought about eventually settling in Gocta. I didn’t think it would happen so soon, but the COVID pandemic was the push that led me to make the decision to move permanently, to establish myself here and dedicate myself 100% to this project and this land. It was already part of my plans, though I didn’t have a set date or moment in mind. Like everyone, the pandemic made me rethink many things. I decided to shift to a more natural, simpler, fresher, and less judgmental lifestyle. And here we are—honestly, we feel free. That’s what pushed me to make the final decision: freedom, in every sense.
How did you come across this property, and how did you choose this location?
I arrived in Cocachimba in the morning, but it was already a bit late to visit the waterfall that day. So, I decided to walk around the village and explore the surroundings. That’s when I met the owner of this land, Cirilo Ramos. I spoke with him and asked if there was a small property for sale. He brought me straight to this one. It was the first property I saw, and I didn’t look at any others because the moment I saw it, I fell in love. I felt like this was my space, that it was meant for me, that it had been waiting for me. I decided to buy the land, probably in two seconds.
At first, I purchased a 600-square-meter lot, and now we’ve expanded to 5,000 square meters. The project is growing, but in a way, I didn’t find the land—the land found me. As the saying goes, “If you fight against your nature, you’re done for.” I didn’t want to fight against my nature, so I let it guide me. And here I am, happy.
Anything special you’d like to share about your experience creating this place, including the monolith?
I loved this place because no cars or mototaxis come here. We’re very close to the village, just 300 meters away, but it feels much farther. Everything has required a lot of work because every material had to be brought in—carried on shoulders, by horse, mule, or cart. It’s been very labor-intensive, but that effort has given me a deeper connection and love for this place. It has allowed me to see things more simply, without stereotypes or hierarchies, just coexisting with nature.
We have a spectacular 300-degree panoramic view, and that’s what nourishes me. Additionally, working on the land—which originally sloped at a 45-degree angle from the path—we had to level about 200 square meters by hand, using pickaxes and shovels. With the earth we dug out, we made adobe bricks to build the house. The rooms are made of adobe walls, and that earth is still here; it was simply transformed.
We also discovered amazing things, like the monolith, which I call “the dinosaur.” Many people call it the puma, jaguar, tortoise, or anaconda, but essentially, it’s a monolith with the perfect shape of a reptile. When I saw its shape, I didn’t even think of breaking it. I decided to leave it as a symbol of the house. Now it’s an important attraction, full of energy. People love it; they take photos and feel its presence, an energy that protects the house and watches over us.
A few months ago, we held an Ayahuasca session with Marcos, a shaman from Huaraz, and a Swiss friend. Marcos asked me about the stone and said, “Mario, what’s that rock?” I replied, “It’s not a rock; it’s a monolith,” and I told him a bit of its history. At first, we had tried to break it a couple of times to use it as material, but after discovering its dinosaur shape, I decided not to touch it and instead keep it as the house’s symbol.
During the three nights of the Ayahuasca session, Marcos told me he saw two men sitting, one on each side of the monolith, watching over us. They didn’t intervene but showed complete agreement with what we were doing. He explained that these men protect the monolith and the house and that they approved of the energy and intentions we have here. It’s a story worth sharing because you can truly feel that energy—it’s something you can sense.
Have you done Ayahuasca? If yes, was it a positive, beneficial experience?
Yes, to be honest, I went through a difficult period of insomnia and couldn’t find a way to heal. I even tried sleeping pills. By chance, I met this shaman in Lima, and he told me about how he uses Ayahuasca. Beyond being a famous plant that supposedly brings you closer to the gods or elevates you to another plane, Marcos had a different perspective. His approach is that Ayahuasca is meant to ground you, to connect you more deeply with reality and help you overcome personal struggles or obstacles, giving you strength and energy through its properties.
I told him about my insomnia, and he said it could help me. So, I didn’t hesitate to invite him. About a month later, he came to Amazonas, and we were joined by a Swiss friend, Philip. Together, we decided to do it. It was my first Ayahuasca session, my first experience, and honestly, the insomnia ended after that. We had three nights of ceremonies. I didn’t have hallucinations like people often describe, nor did I have any stomach issues or vomiting. But I did feel the plant working deeply within me. After that, the insomnia stopped. Now I can sleep peacefully. I don’t feel the need to do another session in the near future, but I definitely recommend it.
What makes living in Gocta so special?
After living in Lima, a couple of major provinces in Peru, Europe, and the United States, I can say this place is special because it offers something you can’t find anywhere else I’ve been. There’s a simplicity to life here in a small village—the locals are incredibly kind, charismatic, and dedicated to communal work. We often work together on community projects, and that sense of togetherness really captivated me.
I loved not having to worry about what to wear. In the city, you’re always stressed about fashion, about not wearing the same pants twice if people have already seen them. Here, you find that simplicity in life, something I had never experienced before. That was one of the main reasons I decided to stay.
Then there’s the landscape. Gocta is 1,800 meters above sea level, with a tropical climate. The clouds are spectacular; they come and go through the ravine all day. The scenery is never the same—every two minutes, it changes: the color, the shape, the waterfall’s flow, the shadows, the position of the sun or moon. You never see the same view twice. It’s like having a new landscape every second, and it’s incredibly refreshing for the spirit.
There’s also the clean oxygen, the fresh air, and the constant breeze. I chose this spot on the hill because we always have pure air here. And then there’s the water. Around the world, water is scarce; in cities, it’s rationed and extremely expensive. Here, we have infinite water, an endless supply. We live in a water paradise. When it rains, waterfalls appear everywhere—it’s magical, truly magical.
It’s as if nature were putting itself on display for you, for everyone…
Exactly, it’s as if nature were putting itself on display for you—as if it wanted to enchant you, call to you, wrap itself around you. And you let it, you let yourself be carried away. Then there’s the physical activity. Here, everything involves movement: we’re constantly adjusting things, moving stones, clearing land. Even going to the village to buy something requires walking 400 or 500 meters. I probably walk around 4 kilometers a day without any trouble. That’s another thing I liked—it doesn’t allow you to be sedentary. It forces you to move, and I think that’s really important for life and health, for both the body and the soul.
How has it changed since you arrived?
From 2010 until today, there have been very few changes. Are you asking about the village or the people? Overall, life has changed. When I arrived 15 years ago, people wore sandals or simple rubber shoes and carried machetes at their waists. They were primarily focused on growing sugarcane, and the main economic activity was making the famous chancaca (unrefined cane sugar). Now, most people are involved in tourism. A bicapa road is being built, and people have improved their lifestyle and quality of life. Young people now have better opportunities for education.
When I first came, the village didn’t have much of a commitment to nature. People saw it as a resource to exploit without thinking about preservation. But with tourism, the fame of the waterfall, and the intervention of national and international organizations, people have started to respect and care more for nature. Now they value it, love it, and are eager to protect it for future generations—their children and grandchildren.
For example, the Cocachimba Tourism Association is now the best community tourism association in Peru. We’ve won awards as the top community tourism organization. We have trained guides, and the village has become more united. Before, we didn’t celebrate the village’s anniversary. Now we celebrate it with three days of festivities: there’s music, marathons, sports, dancing, food. During those days, no one pays to enter the waterfall. The villagers have a natural initiative to welcome visitors—not just as a source of income but to give them a memorable experience, something they can take with them, along with a piece of the heart of this special place.
What are your favorite places here?
My home. My favorite places are the higher elevations, El Arenal, and the 20-kilometer trail; for me, those are the most enchanting parts of the area. Then there’s the waterfall pool, the lagoon—it has an incredibly strong, magical energy. Sometimes I try to go early in the morning to be alone, to connect with it, absorb its energy, and come back recharged.
In general, this entire place is full of energy. I think part of that comes from the constant movement of water—rivers, streams, ravines, and waterfalls. That movement creates a unique dynamic here that makes you forget anything negative, any problems or misfortunes you might have.
I love walking. I don’t have a single favorite spot, but walking, observing, looking, and thinking with that sense of freedom is what I enjoy the most.
What are you optimistic about?
I’m definitely optimistic because tourism is improving significantly and beginning to recover. In 2014, for example, we hit a record of 1,800 visitors in a single day. While I was building the house, between 400 and 800 people would pass by daily on the same path to the waterfall. I’d see all the tourists coming and going, and they’d always ask me, “Where are you from? What are you doing here?” Then COVID hit, and everything dropped to zero.
Now, we’re in a phase of reactivation, and I think it’s going to be positive and beneficial for everyone. I don’t think it will take too long, as we’re already seeing signs that people are traveling again and appreciating these kinds of places. Foreign tourists are returning. From 2019 to last year, 95% of the tourism here was domestic. But this year, we’re seeing visitors from Europe, North America, and Asia again.
I also see that, nationally, people are becoming more aware and more willing to explore and promote places like this. Before the pandemic, travel priorities leaned more toward big cities and cosmopolitan destinations. Now, it seems that travelers are looking for more natural, simple, and everyday destinations—places where you find not only nature but also people who are equally humble, kind, and without prejudice.
There’s a lot of optimism for this town, this village. Tourism is the main activity here, and 95% of the population depends on it. So yes, we’re feeling very optimistic.
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